More on Madagascar...my second time through, I treated myself to the Colbert Hotel, pricey, but worth every penny due to finally feeling safe! Then I met a man named Bruno who showed me several of the inhabitants of Madagascar.  Bruno was quite the gentleman, and transformed my trip into a pleasant holiday!  He was a guide for one of the parks, with a nominal fee.  I tipped him triple his fee and he almost fainted.  I told him he saved my holiday :)